Clean

Beemer Detailing

A Step-By-Step Guide

(c) 2006 Bill Shaw

The following opinions are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of Morton’s BMW Motorcycles.

Preface

There is a perception within the BMW motorcycling community that anyone with a clean bike, particularly a GS, must not ride far or often, or would rather clean it than ride it. As a matter of fact, Lifetime BMW MOA member and GS rider Don Graling is often heard saying that “a clean GS is a dirty shame.” Well, I am here to suggest that the two do not have to be mutually exclusive.

There are a number of advantages to periodically cleaning your bike like protecting your investment, taking pride in its appearance, or, for those attentive riders mindful of costly repairs, identifying problems before they occur. It should be considered routine maintenance, which is why I recommend doing it with the same commitment and regularity as a 3,000-mile oil change.

Coupled with ideas given to me by friends, as well as information gleaned from the Internet, marketing literature and other reading material, the following is a compilation of techniques that I’ve been using for years to clean my Beemers.

Rudimentary Cleaning Equipment

Start by buying, pilfering, or otherwise permanently securing two buckets that will be used exclusively for your bike(s). Earmark one for washing the wheels, engine, drivetrain and other sullied non-body parts. The second bucket, preferably one in a different color, will be assigned solely for the painted surfaces and windshield.

Next, buy at least two of the softest car-wash mitts you can find for the painted body parts and windshield. The best ones are made from natural fleece and have a thick mat/pile which is best for lifting and carrying away dirt, bugs, and other unwanted debris from the paint surface without scratching it. I do not advocate using sponges for washing painted surfaces/windshields since they aren’t nearly as effective as thick mitts for lifting and carrying away grime.

For drying, a synthetic chamois like those sold at many BMW dealers and made by S100 are very effective. It can be thrown in a washing machine when soiled and does not crack or become brittle with age. Real detailing aficionados do not use natural chamois, fearing that the chemicals used in the tanning process might adversely react with a bike’s finish. Natural chamois also requires more care, usually costs more, and does not last as long as a quality synthetic chamois.

Another tool that can be used to dry your motorcycle quickly is a silicone squeegee. The California Water Blade is one example. The manufacturer claims it removes water in one-third the time of a chamois, has 15 times less friction than a terrycloth towel, and will not scratch the finish. I’ve had mixed results with squeegees because of all the compound curves on a bike ­ they seem more suited for cars than motorcycles. In the end, I still use a chamois to mop up the water left behind in the recesses and crevices that the squeegee missed.

It’s also good a good idea to add several microfiber cleaning towels, 100% cotton cloth diapers, regular cotton towels, and shop rags to your cleaning kit too. The diapers are ideal for applying polishes and waxes and the cotton towels’ thicker pile aids in removing the dried residue. Microfiber towels are ideal for finishing work and detailing and heavy-duty cleaning; “shop” rags are great for use on those areas of the motorcycle where you don’t want to use a quality mitt (e.g., engine, drivetrain, etc.). However, I also have a sacrificial, i.e., cheap, synthetic fiber mitt for the wheels, lower body parts, and the suspension.

Washing and Drying Fundamentals

The quickest way to age any vehicle prematurely is to simply do nothing and allow the dirt to attack your bike’s engine and/or finish. Having the right tools helps. But knowing how to use them is equally important ­ and it all begins with soap and water.

Use a liquid soap specifically designed for washing cars/motorcycles instead of powder soaps, since undissolved particles can be abrasive. All wax manufacturers (Meguiars, Eagle One, RainDance, Turtle Wax, etc.) sell their own brand of car wash soap which can be purchased at most automotive parts retailers or discount chains like Target, Wall Mart, etc. Generally speaking, the stronger the concentration of soap, the more wax you are likely to remove. I suggest reading the manufacturer’s suggested directions and then using half the recommended amount of soap. Also, avoid using hot water when mixing the soap in your bucket since this will soften and facilitate removal of the wax. Lastly, do not use dishwashing liquids, since the strong detergents used to remove hardened food from plates will be as equally effective at removing wax from your bike.

Ideally, the bike should be parked in the shade and cool to the touch before washing. Begin by cleaning the wheels first with the bucket and sponge/mitt/shop rag that you identified for this purpose, since they can easily take as much time as washing the rest of the bike. In other words, if you start with the bodywork, you risk not drying it yourself before the wheels are done, thus leaving unsightly water spots. Generally speaking, BMW fitted two kinds of wheels on its bikes over the years: wire-laced rims like those found on many GSs and some R1100Rs, and 4-spoke “Y” and 3/5-spoke alloy cast wheels found on F650CS/Oilhead/Hexhead and/or K-Bikes.

With regard to cleaning laced wheels, it’s best to just keep on top of them ­ meaning every time you wash the bike, spend the extra 10 minutes on the wheels. I like to use a soft-bristled, double-sided brush, rag and/or sponge to clean the spokes, hub and rim. If the grunge is heavy, you can pre-treat the wheels with Simple Green, S-100 Wheel Cleaner, or a non-acidic wheel cleaner before scrubbing. A narrow cloth wrapped completely around the spoke and moved in a back and forth motion is a good, albeit time consuming, technique for shining individual spokes.

Cleaning the cast alloy spoke wheels, particularly on late model bikes, is much easier since a clear coat has been applied at the factory. This usually involves just using soap and water. In cases where the dirt has built up, Simple Green or S-100 Wheel Cleaner and a shop rag/sponge will remove the heaviest grime. A narrow paintbrush/toothbrush is also good for the smaller recesses and cavities in the hub and prevents scraped knuckles. I also found that WD-40 works when removing whatever tar, grease or dirt is left over after having used the wheel cleaner. Just remember to spray WD-40 on a rag first and then rub it on with your hand since any over-spray on the tires could make them slippery. And in this regard, don’t put any tire dressing on the tires unless the bike is going to be an unused museum piece.

Also, be careful about using cleaning agents designed for automobile wheels. Some of these specialty products are made for non-clear coat rims and contain acids that are intended to remove materials used in the fabrication of brake pads; e.g., resins, synthetic and metallic fibers, and polymer-based adhesives. If applied to unprotected aluminum motorcycle wheels, they could etch and aesthetically ruin the rims.

Next, get the wash mitt and “clean” bucket selected specifically for use on the painted surfaces. Thoroughly hose the bike down with a garden hose, trying not to spray water directly at any seals, gaskets, or electrical connections. Also use a continuous stream of low-pressure water and not a pressure washer. Pressure systems increase the risk of inadvertently forcing water into areas that could damage, corrode, and even prematurely wear parts. Start at the top with the windshield and work your way down using plenty of water. As one expert detailer wrote, “If you spare the water, you risk ruining the finish.” And if you accidentally drop your mitt on the ground, set it aside and get a new one. I also “shake” the mitt in the bucket every time in an effort to get whatever dirt is on the mitt to fall off.

With respect to cleaning vinyl seats, the same techniques described above applies. That is to say, simply use soap and water. I don’t recommend applying a plastic/vinyl conditioner since it could leave a film that might be slippery and, therefore, potentially dangerous for the rider and passenger. Besides, vinyl saddles hold up extremely well, last many years with minimal care, and are very inexpensive to recover/replace.

The bike should then be rinsed thoroughly and dried as soon as possible. As suggested earlier, the best method of accomplishing this is to use a quality synthetic chamois, silicone squeegee, 100% cotton cloth diaper, or a soft, clean terrycloth towel. I know they are common and even used in many motorcycle shops to expedite drying a motorcycle, but I don’t recommend using a leaf blower, compressed air, or a forced air blower. Frankly, it isn’t worth the risk ­ just ask anyone who’s had a problem after drying their bike using a forced air device or washing it with a pressure washer. The only exception I make is if there’s a chance the water might freeze before it evaporates.

For finishing work and detailing, the miracle elixir that is WD-40 works wonders to restore faded black parts and colored plastic pieces on the bike; e.g., turn signal switches, hoses, cables, air box covers, instrument housings, mirrors, brake calipers (do not spray directly on calipers; apply WD-40 on a rag or toothbrush first), etc. Also, WD-40 is great for removing embedded dirt or wax residue on gas caps, fuel injector covers, knee pads, turn signals and on any other plastic parts where wax was inadvertently applied. For obvious reasons, don’t use WD-40 on the grips, seat or tires.

Applying and Removing Waxes and Polishes

There is a common misconception among the uninitiated that waxes and polishes are the same thing and can be used in place of one another. Interchanging these products is nothing less than blasphemy among detailing aficionados. To help clarify matters, here are some relevant definitions:

POLISHES: Polishes, often referred to as cleaners, are designed to remove contaminants and oxidation, restore the paint/metal to a rich, light-reflecting luster, cover swirl marks/scratches, and prepare the paint for wax. For the most part, polishes contain abrasives and “clean” by friction. There are three types of friction polishes: hand glazes, rubbing compounds, and clays. IF a polish is required, it is almost always best to start with the least aggressive means first and begin with a fine abrasive (a glaze), instead of a coarse abrasive (a rubbing compound or clay). Furthermore, do not confuse metal polishes with paint or plastic polishes or try substituting one for another. I’ve used 3M’s Imperial Hand Glaze for painted surfaces and Novus or Meguiar’s Mirror Glaze #10 Clear Plastic Polish for windscreens and faceshields for years with great results.

WAXES: Most waxes are either organic or polymer-based. Polymer waxes are chemically manufactured and may contain silicone or Teflon, and are (generally) not recommended by most detailing aficionados and painters. The reason is that silicone penetrates the clear coat/paint/primer and is not easily removed. If the bike needs to be repainted at some point in the future, the resulting “fisheyes” will drive your painter crazy. Therefore, I usually recommend organic waxes. Most common organic waxes are from tropical plants (Carnauba) or from bee’s wax. A quality paste/liquid wax containing Carnauba offers a superior protective finish and is applied and removed easier than bee’s wax. Some of the more popular manufacturers of wax products are Meguiars, Eagle One, RainDance, and Turtle Wax.

CLEANER WAXES: It is counterintuitive to expect one product to perform completely different functions. Products that claim to clean and polish, while simultaneously applying a protective coat of wax, aren’t even suited for use on a Ural. Therefore, I do not recommend using cleaner waxes.

I generally polish my bikes about once a year, and always apply a coat of wax immediately afterwards. How often you wax your bike depends on its use. If the bike is garaged and covered and ridden 3,000 miles a year on nice days, you might need to wax it only once a year. If it’s a daily commuter, then 3-4 times or more a year might not seem unreasonable. Remember that wax is designed to sacrifice itself and protect your paint from insects, acid rain, tree secretions, UV rays, and a myriad of other organic and inorganic substances.

A clean and moistened 100% cotton diaper/terry-cloth towel is probably the most practical applicator. Also, apply AND remove polishes/waxes in the direction the wind flows over the bodywork, NOT in a circular motion. Simply stated, scratches and swirl marks are more visible when they are perpendicular to the lines of the vehicle (or your eye). This is especially true if your prize possession is painted a dark color since scratches are more easily seen on darker finishes. An orbital buffer, not to be confused with a high-speed circular buffer, is used by many professionals to apply and remove wax since it saves time. However, most garage detailers should use elbow grease unless professionally trained with a buffer ­ the chance of inadvertently “burning” the paint is not worth the risk.

Using Pledge or any other household products, to shine motorcycles is not a good idea. The chemicals in some household products might not be compatible with the chemicals in the paint, so why risk it? Furthermore, household products do not protect paint against UV, acids, salts, etc.

Cleaning Windshields and Faceshields

For safety reasons, virtually all windshields and faceshields are made from an acrylic, polycarbonate, or other type of plastic. Caring for windshields/faceshields usually requires little more than washing them with mild soap and water. But if the smattered remains of some Cretaceous insect are left unchecked and not removed in a timely fashion ­ usually within a week or two ­ it could eventually “etch” itself into your faceshield or windshield (or paint), possibly permanently.

The best way to remove hardened bugs is to place a warm wet towel over the surface and let it remain there for at least 15 minutes. The water will loosen the bug remains, thus making their removal easier without scratching the surface. DO NOT use paper towels since even the softest ones are still abrasive. I also suggest that you don’t use any over-the-counter ammonia-based glass cleaners like Windex on polycarbonate or acrylic plastics since these cleaners contain harsh chemicals that could cloud the plastic. If soaking and washing doesn’t work, or if you accidentally scratched your windshield, the next step is to use a polish made exclusively for plastics. Novus and Meguiars both make clear plastic polishes which can often be found at a BMW dealer.

Lastly, I wouldn’t recommend using Rain-X. While some riders swear by it, there have been an equal number who reported that their windshield/faceshield clouded over. But most importantly, the manufacturer’s official position is NOT to use Rain-X on any motorcycle windshield of faceshield since the high alcoholic content will eventually cloud the plastic/acrylic.

Now a word about bird poop. Not only is this substance highly acidic, but a close inspection of this offering will probably disclose small pebbles which are used by some of these flying rodents in the digestion of their food. Don’t spare the water and remove excrement as soon as possible after it’s deposited. This stuff will scratch your windshield, faceshield, and bodywork quickly and permanently if not removed properly.

Caring for Leather

Factory and aftermarket leather seats, and saddlebags and grips like those on some R1200 cruisers, hold up amazingly well given the abuse that they receive. Wide temperature variances, friction, UV rays, sweat, and rain constantly bombard them all year around. As a result, leather needs to be cleaned and conditioned regularly. In this regard, try to think of it in the same context as your own skin: If the oils are not replenished, your epidermis will eventually dry out and crack.

Taking care of the leather parts on your bike (if applicable) should be part of your standard cleaning regimen too and is quite simple ­ providing you use the right products. First, use a soft cloth and water to remove any surface dirt and grime. Then use a pH-balanced cleaner to remove dirt that’s imbedded into the leather which could potentially clog the pores. Lastly, apply a pH-balanced conditioner. I prefer liquid conditioners like Lexol as opposed to creams. A quality leather conditioner is easily absorbed into the leather, replenishes oils that may have been depleted over time, and keeps the leather pliable thus protecting it from drying out. Lexol products can usually be found at better automotive specialty/part retailers or over the Internet.

Cleaning Engines/Transmissions/Drivetrains and Chrome

When it comes to cleaning BMW motorcycle engines, there are a variety of opinions about what techniques, methods and solvents work best. Some of the information is useful and some of it is potentially detrimental. For instance, I do not advocate warming an engine to loosen/soften any oily/greasy areas or washing a hot engine. Why? Because when the adhesive forces of a liquid exceed cohesive forces, intermolecular forces act upon the liquid. This engineering/chemistry principle is referred to as capillary action or capillarity. In laymen’s terms and as it relates to washing a motorcycle, water can be pulled into the engine through seals, bolts, and gaskets. If an engine was warm/hot, the internal vacuum created as the bike cools would only magnify this effect. Therefore, use a good degreaser like Foamy Engine Bright, Simple Green or Castrol Super Clean to break down the sludge and grease first. This also minimizes the time spent “hosing down” the engine to remove the grease.

Generally speaking, there are three different kinds of engine finishes, each requiring a specific cleaning technique. These are rough-cast aluminum engines like those found on Airheads, engines with a protective or clear coat applied over the aluminum cases like those on F650s and Oilheads/Hexheads, and painted engines like those on most K-bikes.

CAST ENGINES: Motorcycles with engines cast from aluminum, distinctive by their rough finish like those found on pre-1995 “Airhead” bikes, are probably the most difficult to clean and keep looking new. In order to dissipate heat effectively, these engines are not painted or clear coated and the “porous” cases seem to be a magnet for all kinds of road debris.

I’ve had good results using a 3-step cleaning process on these engines, transmissions and drivetrains. First, wash the engine/drive train with soap and warm water, rinse, and let it dry. A toilet bowl brush, stiff-bristle, wooden handle brush, or a nylon toothbrush are effective in cleaning tight areas such as in-between cylinder fins. A Scotch-Brite pad can also be used on particularly oily or dirty parts of the engine. SOS Pads, on the other hand, are not recommended since these tend to disintegrate and leave behind small metal filings that will rust and stain the cases.

Once thoroughly washed, use Simple Green, Foamy Engine Bright (or some other engine degreaser) or S100 Engine Restorer to attack the really greasy areas.

Finally, carefully spray the worst areas of the engine with Eagle One Etching Mag Cleaner (designed for non-clear coated surfaces) and work it in using stiff-bristled brush. But be careful. This highly acidic cleaner will dull the aluminum surface if left on too long. Another solution for removing old, heavy oxidation on aluminum engines is to use a kitchen product called Lime Away. But unless you’re a chemist, I don’t recommend combining two or more of these techniques to clean the engine at the same time.

As noted previously, it is important to treat the engine before washing the bike, so you can wash any chemicals used to clean the engine off the bodywork. Then simply rinse with water and allow the engine to dry.

CLEAR COAT ENGINES: BMW engines manufactured today are made of aluminum, and if not painted, have a protective or clear coat finish applied to them. Cleaning usually requires washing the bike with soap and water. While F650 and Oilhead/Hexhead engines do not require the same level of effort to keep looking new as an Airhead cast engine, the clear coat can deteriorate over time if not washed regularly.

One-step engine cleaners such as S-100 Total Cycle Cleaner or detergents like Simple Green (diluted with 50% water) are very effective on grease-laden areas. But I would not recommend using them, or an automotive-type engine degreaser, every time the bike is washed since they might dull the finish over the long-term. Remember to always use the least aggressive means first.

But if after using soap and water and then a strong detergent doesn’t work, try using WD-40 as a spot remover. I’ve used it to remove paint, tar, bugs, and a host of other unwanted earth-bound things from my engine without any adverse affects. One item that cannot be removed via conventional means is gasoline that has stained the engine/jug/transmission housing. If the engine is continually exposed to gas, from a leaking fuel line for example, the gasoline will stain the clear coat to a dull yellow that cannot be removed without harming the clear coat finish. If you notice this discoloration, find the source since you may have a potential problem.

Also, avoid using aluminum or metal polishes if possible. Once the clear coat has been removed from the engine/drivetrain, the time necessary to offset aluminum oxidation will quadruple unless another protective clear coat finish is applied.

PAINTED ENGINES: Many K-bike engines, transmissions and drivetrains are painted to protect them from the elements. But the effects of heat, detergents, and the sun’s UV rays will eventually deplete the oils from the paint over time unless care is exercised. Again, a routine cleaning regimen requires nothing more than washing the bike with soap and water. I also recommend replenishing the oils in the paint by periodically using WD-40 or S100 Engine Brightener. This will help restore luster to these engine parts and keep the engine looking bright. They are equally effective when removing stubborn dirt/tar/gravel too.

CHROME: To keep chrome looking new is as easy as washing your bike as described above being especially careful that your wash mitt is free of dirt and gravel. I do not recommend using a chrome polish regularly since it is by definition an abrasive. Every time you polish chrome, you are essentially removing a microscopic layer that can only be replaced by re-chroming (unlike painted surfaces which can be waxed). Therefore it is particularly important to use the “least aggressive approach” first when working on chromed parts.

Postscript

Whether you ride your Beemer in the dirt or street, 1,000 miles a year or 100,000, protecting your investment by cleaning it with some degree of regularity is important. And if the truth were known, caring for your bike will actually take less time than you might imagine and is a good way, again, to identify and correct any potential problems. But as pointed out earlier, doing something ­ anything ­ is better than nothing at all.